18.2.13

Day 63 - Louisiana

Saturday, Emily and I took the train to Humlebæk to visit the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art.


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We decided to learn more about the rejsekort system before we left. The ticket agent explained that there is just way too much information regarding the rejsekort. Too much to convey at the ticket counter. Hmmm.

No, we were not whisked away to a rejsekort VIP lounge where the entire complexity would explained to us by Viggo Mortensen and Scarlett Johansson. FYI, they bring out the half-Danes to appeal to American sensibilities.

No, we were told to go to the website, read more, and come back after we became appropriately knowledged.

With some convincing, were instead given application forms. And pamphlets. In Danish. Once Emily translated the application documents on her phone, we reached the obvious conclusion that the rejsekort was for us.

An aside. The above is the main sort of problem that we've continually run into in Denmark. The information is there. The Danes can speak English. There's just - I don't know - an overall resistance to taking the extra step to provide that information in an easy to understand manner. It's not everyone and it's not everywhere, but it's common.

Bonus points for the rejsekort;

- It automatically calculates the number of zones you need
- It automatically reloads from your debit card if it dips below 50 dkk
- 20% off fares during non-peak times. Weekends are non-peak.

You tap in when you get on the train. You tap in again if you switch to another train, the metro, a bus, etc. When you're done, you tap out.

Hilarious things about the rejsekort;

- There is no way - at least as far I can discern - that the agents on the train can confirm that you have tapped in. On the train, an agent will ask for your ticket. Flash your rejsekort and you're done. Trust. Honor system.
- Going to Humlebæk is 49 dkk during peak time. Our trip out cost 39.20 dkk - this was from København H. On the trip back, we wanted to get off at Frederiksberg, so we transferred to the metro at Nørreport and took the metro two stops to Frederiksberg. I think this trip is longer. It uses more types of transportation. It cost 2 dkk less b/c the it is closer to the starting destination - Humlebæk - than København H. Go figure. Go rejsekort!


I've always found, for lack of a better term, the standard European train station platform beautiful. Steel gridwork arching up to meet the sunlight. Love it.

It's about a 45 minute train ride from København H. I was super comfortable, although stupidly riding backwards.


Once at Humlebæk station, it's a quick walk to the Louisiana. On the way I laughed immaturely at this.


So, the Louisiana. It looks like this at the entrance.


And the layout is such.


The museum surrounds a sculpture garden, which is visible as you walk through the museum. Collin's major complaint; loud Danes and Danish children. Call me cranky, when I'm at an art exhibition / museum, I like to think, walk slowly, and be quiet. Whispers. Reflection. This was not that.

The current "visiting" exhibits of interest are Warhol's early drawings and an exhibition by Tara Donovan. At this point I'll obviously mention that I in no way know much of anything about art. I like art. I know what I like.

I enjoyed the Warhol exhibit. Tons of early pen / pencil / prints he produced just out of art school. Emily did hit it on the head that it's essentially an art student dabbling. There were a few different styles, some very angry. In the angry ones, a ton of start / stop with the pen / pencil that gives everything this tense / frenetic feel. Several drawings of Huey Long. Mostly I love the way he draws hair, as here.


There was one that I particularly liked of a couple curled up on a couch. Mostly this exhibition was fun for me probably due to my love of pen and ink forged at a very young age by David Macaulay.

The Donovan exhibit was just great. I love the idea of the viewers perception completely transforming a piece. I'm not so into the cubes of pins / toothpicks / etc, but the stuff that plays with light / vantage point? Unbelievable. It's hard to convey this with pictures, here's the video on the exhibition.



The entry piece, looks like this.


As you walk in, it looks like some sort of amber / mirrored glass. Shiny. Reflective at the center. Cloudy at the edges.

Get closer? It's hollow. Ribbons of plastic weaved about this way and that way. Gorgeous. Devious.

All of the pieces need to be seen in person and need scale. They're all made of common junk. They all involve the viewer in a very unforced way. With each step you experience the piece differently - which is probably true with all art, but this experience makes it far more obvious.

After strolling through the Donovan exhibition we went outside and walked around a bit.



Outside, there's an art installation that should be simply titled DANGER where you can, without ropes, waivers, or other sensible supports, walk a thin slippery ledge around a portion of the museum. It overlooks the Baltic. On the edge of a cliff.

It was a fun trip. The grounds were great. Sadly there was no chrome gorilla. Mount Vernon wins again. A whole wing of the museum was closed, but it didn't really matter. I'd like to see it during another season.

Watch out smug Collin! That bronze guy looks like he's up to no good.

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